When Makeup Expires

By Catherine Qiu

A vast collection of everyday interactions could lead to makeup products that pose health hazards. Dirty applicators and hands provide opportunities for bacterial and fungi contamination. Some factors are exaggerated with the passing of time, such as how emulsions separate. Common bathroom environments have high moisture and temperatures, which could lead to color, texture, and smell changes, accompanying microbial growth enhancement. Not so surprisingly, mascaras have the shortest shelf life at 2-4 months. The applicators are often left uncleaned, leading to potential eye infections (1).

Avid makeup collectors and artists can take measures to ensure their products are safe. So, what are the signs that makeup may be expired? For products with emulsified ingredients, such as foundation, the elements may change color or texture or dry out. Perhaps, the preservatives could wear down with time, leaving microorganism and mold growth. Cosmetics with medical properties such as sunscreen or acne treatment may be less effective treatments (2).

Usually, you'll find two expiration dates: the first one can be found on the packaging and will be the expiration date if the product remains unused or unopened. The second one should be on the container, pointing out the number of months that the product should be used once opened (shown on the right). A quick tip: calculate the specific date it’ll expire and write/tape that date on the container (2).

Cosmetic manufacturers, at least in the United States, don’t have to share their safety data collection with the FDA, but they are responsible to ensure the makeup is safe, if used as instructed. Some recommended precautions for consumers are to toss out mascara every few months, avoid sharing makeup, clean applicators, store makeup away from direct sunlight, and be wary of homemade products (1).

Many ways exist to preserve makeup, such as using optimal packaging, processes, and ingredients. The purpose of preservatives is to keep bacteria and fungi at bay. Microorganisms may feel at home on skin because they thrive at pH levels similar to that of skin, which is around 4-6.5.

One specific, popular type of preservative is antioxidants, where its properties can appear in the active ingredient, color, or texture. Most preservatives can be safe to mitigate microbial growth and impacts from contamination. The common preservatives are aldehydes, isothiazolinones, organic acids, parabens, which specialize in either bacteria and fungi. The common antibacterial one is glycol ethers. Homemade products without preservatives may have adverse effects in a shorter period. When buying homemade products, it’s safe to ask about the preservatives or shelf life of the products (3).

There may be many legal technicalities. In particular, color additives need to be approved by the FDA. Also, the product should be safe if used as instructed on the label (4). For the FDA, there is a list of harmful, unallowed ingredients such as mercury and chloroform that are banned from appearing in cosmetic products (5). When the cosmetic claims to have sunburn protection or acne treatments or for general medical use, the company needs to include “active ingredient information, possible side effects, an expiration date, and more as required by regulations” (2).

Sources:

Shelf Life and Expiration Dating https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetics-labeling/shelf-life-and-expiration-dating-cosmetics

Expiring Products - Cosmetics https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/expiring-products-cosmetics

Preservatives https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/preservatives-cosmetics-safe-fresh

Small Businesses & Homemade Cosmetics https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/resources-industry-cosmetics/small-businesses-homemade-cosmetics-fact-sheet

Prohibited & Restricted Ingredients in Cosmetics

https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/cosmetics-laws-regulations/prohibited-restricted-ingredients-cosmetics